Men's Fashion Week Fall 2024 Season
It has been unusually cold in Florence, Milan and Paris over the past two weeks as designers presented their menswear collections at Pitti Uomo, at the Settimana of Milan Fashion and Paris Fashion. Featured Week for Fall 2024. . Appropriate, considering the outfits they showed us for next fall and winter included oversized coats and a nod to outdoor activities. Some designers even celebrated the cold, like Pharrell, who closed the Louis Vuitton show with a layer of snow.
The shows were a showcase of styles that often seemed incredibly wearable. This was especially evident in Milan, where Gucci ushered in a new era in menswear under the leadership of Sabato De Sarno. While his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, was an unprecedented world-builder who pushed the boundaries of kitsch fashion, De Sarno seems determined to create clothes that he (and a wider range of customers) would want to wear.
There was a feeling similar to Paris, where many big houses offered fewer editorial collections than in recent years, with more accessible silhouettes. For example, loose trousers have been replaced by the familiar straight, tight trousers.
But beyond that, these are the trends that stood out during the two-week show.
Full length
Gucci by De Sarno The fashion show marked the start of Milan Fashion Week and the immediate conclusion was that long coats were in fashion. (De Sarno himself is an avid coat collector and has more than 200 in his wardrobe, so it was fitting that coats were an important part of his collection.) The first look featured a long, ankle-length black coat, a which followed. for a long sleeveless aubergine coat, an ankle-length trench coat and even some that shook the earth and dragged the models along with them.
There were long statements. Over the next couple of weeks, coats will also appear on the catwalks, from Loewe (a golden brown teddy style) to Louis Vuitton (a workwear-inspired yellow coat with a contrasting collar).
However, when the fashion shows lasted Milan and in Paris it was clear that not only long coats were in fashion, but also everything that was elongated. There were longer jackets at Giorgio Armani and Our Legacy; long sweaters that looked like slip dresses from JW Anderson; long shirts over trousers at Wales Bonner, Commes des Garçons Homme Plus and Officine Générale; and turtlenecks at Hermès and almost every look at Valentino.
The theme was even repeated in detail. At Bluemarble, Kenzo and Walter Van Beirendonck, belts hung from coats, while at Egonlab the fringes on leather jackets were comically long. There were guys with long, flowing bangs from Louis Vuitton and, for good measure, a long fringed coat.
Big bags
They say that fashion is synonymous with luxury . Part of their profits are invested in coveted accessories, including handbags. And there was no shortage of "big bags" on the autumn 2024 catwalks, both in terms of aesthetic quality and appeal. In fact, many have been enlarged to create a striking effect.
In Paris, at Louis Vuitton, where Pharrell is already famous for his extraordinary ability to make the most coveted bags, there were hard suitcases covered in plaid and monogram fabric that the models pushed on carts along the street. path. to accompany. and a giant bag that looked like something an artist would carry along with a canvas, easel, and brushes. The Hermès collection featured giant versions of the brand's iconic leather bags, and at White Mountaineering designer Yosuke Aizawa offered a more casual (and, in our opinion, much cheaper) version in the form of bulky canvas bags.
Previously in Milan, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada presented capacious leather bags on the catwalk as part of the Prada collection, while Giorgio Armani presented versions of most of them: a suede bag, leather bags and shiny canvas bags.
A regal aura
The '20s have so far been characterized by casual dressing (hello, athleisure and casual tailoring), but it looks like the future will be more regal. Maybe the secret wealth was a harbinger of things to come, or maybe it was the proliferation of houndstooth patterns and fire clubs in recent seasons. In any case, the autumn 2024 collections were full of opulence, with references to the British monarchy and the pastimes of the aristocratic and wealthy classes.
The look was seen in Florence in evening dress, with tuxedo and bow tie by Todd Snyder, Magliano and S.S. The style was a bit subversive: bow ties were untied and draped around the neck, tuxedo jackets with black suits and white shawl collars instead of the other way around.
From Fendi to Milan, Silvia Venturini Fendi showed its affinity with Princess Anne with a collection inspired by the British countryside. There were plaids, plaids and tartans everywhere, as well as luxury versions of hunting jackets, leather fishing jackets and driving shoes which we thought would come in very handy for driving an Aston Martin on Scotland's mountain roads. The Hermès Winter 2024 collection was also influenced by British style and featured Prince of Wales checks and diamonds.
Also at Prada and Emporio Armani there were several nautical looks that looked more like an admiral than a simple sailor, with hats, captain's coats, coats with gold buttons and Moreover.
And maybe he most obvious target of an elite class was Kim Jones' decision to present an entire men's couture collection for the first time during his Dior Winter 2024 show, the centerpiece of which was a kimono that took three months. 10 people.
It can be said with certainty that the designer This shows that it's time for people to take their clothes seriously again.
Sheet White
The obvious color story of the fall 2024 collections was the predominance of rich tones: dark red with burgundy edges or brown, deep blue, earthy brown and warm orange and yellow tones went hand in hand with the aforementioned opulent vibe.
But the real color trend was the white , A color that can already be found in many wardrobes in the form of T-shirts, shirts, socks, etc. They are much more basic products. So how can you say that white is the trending color of the season?
On the one hand, Rei Kawakubo said it with a collection dominated by white accents on black pieces, white wool dresses and jackets seemingly turned inside out to reveal their white lining. Kawakubo's program notes simply stated that "white symbolizes prayer."
Sacai presentation by Chitose Abe Ela also presented a series of white looks, highlighting an expertly tailored white shirt at the end of the show, while the Emporio Armani collection featured alpine styles that would easily serve as camouflage in the snow.
White stands out in the rich palette. And there's something inherently bourgeois about wearing a lot of white; This assumes that you don't get dirty or that it's okay to do so because you can buy another pair of pants or a new dress.
